As many of you who know me know, I am a picky eater. Don’t get me wrong, if I am eating something I like, I am not shy about eating. However, if I can’t readily identify the food I won’t eat it. The same goes for if I can identify it too well, then, I have a difficult time eating it. I was a vegetarian for many, many years. John and I laugh about my saying that I am “only one bad piece of bacon away from being a vegetarian” again. John doesn’t think there is such a thing as a bad piece of bacon. I mostly agree. But wow, there are some other things that could make me run screaming towards being a fruitarian. After today, it is a miracle I haven’t become an oxygenarian.
We had a lazy Saturday morning. It was a cold and rainy day. We walked over to the Saturday outdoor market a couple of blocks away. Sima had been telling me I had to have one of the sausages from one of the vendors. I wasn’t that keen on the idea.
There is a whole lot wrong about that for me. Besides the sausage which is filled with, thankfully, unidentifable parts, there is also the issue of “street vendor.” But we got there and I figured I had to at least try. There were two guys behind the stand. They had a giant skillet on the fire. It reminded me a bit of a paella pan but 5 times the size. On it they had sausages browning…big whitish sausages and sliced meat pork and sauerkraut. They take a nice hard-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside roll that is warm. They slice it down the middle and put some hot sauerkraut on it. Then they take a large sausage and put it on top. They have mayo and mustard to put on them. Ben ordered and then Sima ordered. When it was my turn to tell him what I wanted one of the guys looked at me and said, “Mama Cass!” Then they both broke into song, “All the leaves are brown and the sky is gray…California Dreaming…” Yeah, it was a moment. And, it wasn’t like they were trying to be offensive or rude in anyway. I could have said, “I played Mama Cass in a movie called My Dinner with Jimi. But the moment was fast and then it was gone. Mostly.
They kept singing while we sat there eating on a bench. I pointed to the sausage I wanted…the one that seemed the most “well done.” He said, “that’s a small one.” I was glad I got a small one. It was tasty but after I was around 2/3 of the way through I just couldn’t eat any more. The parts of it that made me not want to eat it are probably the exact reasons why people eat them. The hard snap of the casing, the smell of the meat, the richness. I couldn’t take another bite. I am very glad I had the experience. I wouldn’t be sad if I didn’t eat one again.
The fruit and vegetable stands were beautiful.
The cheese stands are filled with all kinds of goat cheeses and Goudas. The smell accosts you as you approach. The fish stands are also a site to see. Being on the Atlantic there are a lot of flat fish unlike fish we see on the Pacific. The meat stands are also fascinating with parts I haven’t seen since I was in phsyiology class.
I was going to make a stew so I bought wonderful things. All farm fresh ingredients: mushrooms, potatoes, fresh thyme, carrots with the greens and onions. We bought a big heavy light pumpernickel bread. I am sure I will dream about that bread for the rest of my life. It was the end of the day at the market and I hadn’t seen any beef I was interested in purchasing. Ben and Sima knew of a butcher so walked a couple of blocks. Unfortunately, the butcher shop had just closed. I understand that when a store is closed it is inappropriate to approach the doors. Just walk away and cut your losses. However, the owner, a big, impressive older blond man, saw me look in and opened up the side door and ushered us in. As soon as we crossed the threshold a woman shoved a plate of big slices of liverwurst at us offering us a sample. I politely declined. The shop was quite lovely…for a butcher shop. All glass with marble counter tops for them to cut the meats. The floors were tiled. And, it was CLEAN. Very nice! He asked what I wanted and I told him beef for stew. Over the counter where he was cutting meat were logs of different kinds of salami/sausagy things. He had just cut a small piece of meat he had on the counter for me when he reached up and pulled down a hung of what appeared to be a hard salami. He cut the thing down the middle and handed a large piece to me and then a large piece to Sima.
On closer inspection it looked like a hard salami that was never cooked. The outside was firm but the inside was like raw hamburger. I am sure I had eyes the size of saucers as I looked at him like, “you don’t think I am going to eat this do you?!” He smiled and said, “EAT! It’s beef.” So, I took a deep breath and took a bite. Yup, it was beef. Raw beef. It actually tasted a bit like summer sausage that wasn’t cooked. I looked at Sima, who like me, has some issues with identifiable food. I said quietly to her, “Don’t make a face…just keep smiling and take a bite.” The butcher had gone to the back and then returned with a large piece of what I assume was chuck with the bones in and cut stew pieces for me. Then he reaches up and grabbed another meat log of some kind and sliced off a couple of hunks of something else for us to try. So, now I have a bag of beef for stew, a huge piece of raw summer sausage and now he is handing me this new piece of something. It was like a cross between bologna and ham. It was warm and had the appearance as if it had been browned in a pan. It was actually okay. But really I felt like I had had my share of meat products to last a lifetime at that point. The experience of it was extraordinary. The kindness and generosity is a great memory.
It rained a lot yesterday so on the way back from the market we decided to stop at a little cafe and sit outside under the awning and watch as they took down the market and cleaned the streets. Ben walked back to boat to drop off our groceries. Sima and I spent time talking to a lovely woman who was visiting here from England with her niece and sister. After two coffees I switched to beer. They had the beer from the Brouwerg IJ which made it especially nice and memorable.
After a dinner of stew we decided to go to a party. Some of Sima and Ben’s friends were going to be there. We walked and then took a tram. It was nice to see a different neighborhood. The flat where the out of town friends were staying was fabulous. It was a diverse group of people. Again, I got to experience Dutch stairs. Ohh, and the smallest bathroom outside of an airplane I have ever been in. I didn’t take a picture of the bathroom. I should have. I did catch a picture of the stairs. I don’t think the pictures do justice to the intensity of the stairs. You don’t get the full sense of the steepness or the curve or the shallow footing.
Today, Sunday, it is quite cold outside with patches of sun peaking through the clouds. We had thought about going to the zoo but I think we are going to wander some neighborhoods and go back down to The Dam.

The brewery was a much better experience than Lester the Molester at the tram stop. The windmill is beautiful. The guide at the brewery was great! He was very knowledgeable on the beer making process and knew a lot about this particular brewery. Up until recently it was owned by one man. That man, Kasper, sold the business to a larger business. But it has remained a small brewery making 250,000 liters a year up from the previous 200,000. They only export 1% of the beer they produce to the US and the UK. Pretty unfortunate as I found the beer to be delicious! I am not a big drinker or a big beer drinker but this is beer I could drink a lot and often!
Then he said, “now, we are going downstairs.” I felt a moment of panic. Not only am I not a huge fan of stairs…especially, going down them…I just didn’t want to embarrass myself as I had heard tales about Dutch stairs. Dutch stairs are known to be windy and tight and very shallow. They also don’t always have handrails. I let everyone go down the stairs ahead of me until there was just me and a young couple waiting to go down the stairs. One of the men had crutches. I told him I was going to be slow going down. He laughed and said, “Me too.” He went first. I stood at the top and, well, you can imagine the words that were running through my head. They were steep, and windy, and curved and had no handrail. The good news is since I am so wide my body hugged every curve and I got down no problem. When I met the tour in the room everyone turned and looked as they were waiting for me. I threw my hands in the air, curtseyed and said, “Ta Dah!” Sima said to the group, “those were her first Dutch stairs.” Everyone clapped. Then I thought the guide asked, “Am I your first Dutch guy?” To which I responded, “No.” Then Sima said, “guide.” Then I said, “Your not my first Dutch guy but you are my first Dutch guide.” Everyone laughed. It was a very fun moment. I went up the stairs last, again. I climbed them like a ladder with my hands on the steps in front of me. 
Sima ordered sole in butter sauce, which I had considered, but was very, very glad I hadn’t when it came with the tail, head and skeleton attached. I ordered the chicken satay. It came with spicy green beans that were cooked in a hot red coconut sauce. In the US, satay sauce, at least the sauce that I am used to, is light in color. This sauce was dark and rich and thick. It was delicious.
One of my concerns before my trip was about fitting in Amsterdam. Not fitting in figuratively but literally. Being a big woman I have to consider the space I take up in the world. I remember years ago my parents went on a trip to Paris. When they returned my mother told me that I would love it there but that I wouldn’t fit. I remember thinking, “Really!? I wouldn’t fit in the entire city of Paris?!” The imagery in my mind was that of my picture up a the customs desk with a big red circle around me with a diagonal line…kind of like a “No Fat Chicks” bumper sticker. The truth of it is that it is an honest concern. People here aren’t as large. The chairs at cafes are small and flimsy to our standards. There is also much less real estate for things. The buildings here are close together. The streets and sidewalks (if there sidewalks) are much more narrow. The cars are tiny. Everyone here rides bicycles or scooters or walks. The bustling sounds you hear aren’t that of a morning commute with cars and horns but of rickety bikes that are rusty and squeaky from the rain and bike bells and of people talking on their cell phones as they walk the streets to their destination.
Walking further we passed a stand where they were making waffles and these tiny pancakes called poffertjes. I have seen them called fritters but they really aren’t to me since they are not deep fried. We got a small order with butter and powdered sugar. WOW!!! is what my taste buds screamed as popped this little tender light brown pancake in my mouth. I have never tasted anything like it. We stood there with the crowds of people moving around us as if we were the only two people in the world. It was a great moment – two sisters, giggling, both of us covered in powdered sugar, eating these yummy treats. I took a picture of them on the pan. The cook reached over so I could hand him my camera. He took a picture of us looking through the glass while they cooked. It was a kind gesture and now we have this moment memorialized.
A friend told me I had to try Indonesian food while I am here. We went to a little neighborhood restaurant last night for beer and snacks. They actually call them snacks which pleases me! I love snacks. I love the term snacks. It is evocative to me of something tasty and fun without the air of prentention that the hor’dourves or even appetizers has. Snacks are exactly that. They don’t can stand on their own. These did!! We had cheese snacks. They took chalk sized pieces of gouda cheese then wrapped them in filo and fried them. Those cheese snacks have now taken their rightful place on the list of my favorite foods of all time. They had these little croquettes of a beef ragu that are also fried called bitterballen. Imagine the tastiest stew you can imagine with a hint of Indonesian spice then fried like an arancini (an Italian rice ball). So, you end up with this crispy on the outside, hot and steamy and soft on the inside. They are served with this spicy smoothe mustard. We had other snacks too. All great but not nearly as memorable to me as the cheese snacks. And, did I mention beer? We had many ice cold beers to go with our snacks. Then it was a quick walk back over the bridge to the boat.